The Dubliner Irish Pub

Our first indication that The Dubliner Irish Pub is not the typical cramped, dimly lit Irish bar was when we swung open the front doors.

Light poured in through eight-pane windows to the west. Iron chandeliers hung from the high ceilings marked by overhead beams. A stone fireplace beckoned from the back wall. A twin set of clocks hung on one wall: one for our city, and the other for Dublin.

And in another departure from Irish pubs, a smoking ban has been in effect since The Dubliner opened in February.

Owners Jerry and Cheryl Stenstrup, who own Steny’s across the street (which has been in business for 24 years), got inspired during trips to Ireland’s countryside. They opened, appropriately, a month before St. Patrick’s Day 2010.

Only dinner is served on the weekdays. On Saturday and Sunday a traditional Irish breakfast is served beginning at 11am. Nightly drink and food specials go beyond the typical two- or three-hour span to stretch until 10pm or midnight.

Aiming for a gastropub theme, the owners say, its food menu is best defined as comfort food-but with an Irish twist. For instance, a baked pretzel roll (pretzel dough rolled into a ball) arrives with some entrees. Irish cheddar-and not American-tops the Mac N Cheese.

“Pub plates” are the appetizers here. Mulling over options like Dubliner Crab Cakes ($12), Irish Twists (mozzarella cheese rolled in a wonton wrap and fried, $7) and Irish Potato Skins ($6), we settled on Gallaway Mussels ($9) with Guinness broth, parsley, leeks, and new potatoes. Although the broth was more like a pool, but deliciously laced with stout beer, we were impressed with the portion size: at least 25 mussels were in this dish. My order of the Dub Mac N Cheese ($7) was rich, creamy, and hearty, and baked with breadcrumbs on top-everything a good Mac N Cheese ought to be-but I missed that sharp-cheddar taste that often tops the noodles. A little less creamy and I would not hesitate to order it on a return visit.

The menu redeemed itself when my dining companion took that first bite of his Shepherd’s Pie ($10). Filled with parsnips, ground sirloin, peas, carrots, potatoes, and fresh herbs, it’s topped with dollops of mashed potatoes and then baked. Paired with the signature pretzel roll, its execution was perfect-lots of earthy flavors.

We also ordered a side of Irish chips (essentially French fries) with the restaurant’s signature dip. For the Dubliner Dip, corned beef, cheese, and sauerkraut are mixed together. There is also a delicious wasabi ranch-style dip that delivers just enough bite.

To end our culinary tour of Ireland, we took the waitress’ advice and ordered two glasses of Dubliner Irish Cream, which is house-made with Kilbeggan whiskey and Irish Cream, and a slice of Bailey’s cheesecake to share. As I’m a sucker for Irish Cream, I expected to fall in love with this drink-but not as much as I soon did. I love a bar that can pull off a reinterpretation of a classic cocktail. Paired with the cheesecake, which has a chocolate crust, both satisfied our sweet teeth.

• The Dubliner Irish Pub
• 124 W. National Ave.
• (414) 763-0301
• dublinerpub.net
• Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 3pm-bartime; Saturday and Sunday, 11am-bartime; closed Monday
• Some vegetarian options
• No children’s menu
• Bar-on site with 12 draft beers
• Street parking
• Outdoor patio
• Price range: appetizers $6-$12; entrees $7-$16

Hue Vietnamese restaurant

For Mark Nielsen and Carina Tran, opening a restaurant that showcases food in Carina’s native, Vietnamese culture was a no-brainer. While working in corporate America for many years they dreamt of the day they would own an eatery serving their favorite foods. And as Bay View residents they recognized the need for a classy, ethnic restaurant.

When Magic Dann’s (2691 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.) closed last fall, the couple-who met as neighbors in Bay View apartments-seized the opportunity and gave birth to Hue (pronounced “hway”). With years of experience managing clubs and bars in Madison and Iowa City, the most recent being Madison’s Tornado Room, Nielsen didn’t hesitate to quit his job to co-manage Hue. (Nor did Tran.)

Nielsen said he modified the 50-seat interior with a goal to end up with a calmer, cooler palette. It shows in the maple-wood dining sets, walls of golden-yellow mustard and warm burgundy, and colorful paintings depicting Vietnam’s landscape. In the entryway are comfy wicker chairs and loveseats, paired with off-white cushions that have a tropical-floral theme. The menu covers are crafted from cork, and the restaurant logo is etched into a silver plate.

Hue is named for the Thua Thien-Hue province in central Vietnam where Carina’s mother grew up. In 1975 Carina’s parents emigrated to America, where Carina was born. All menu items are based on Carina’s mother’s recipes, and the Chinese and French influences in the food derived from the province’s geographic location.

Divided into areas, such as Pho (noodle soups), Bahn Mi (sandwiches), Bun (specialty noodle dishes), and Com (rice dishes), the menu is heavy on pork and chicken, but the staff is happy to substitute with tofu where necessary. Almost all of the items cost under $11, with many falling in the $9 range. We began our meal with an order of Goi Cuon spring-roll appetizers ($8.50), which arrived with two spring rolls-one containing shrimp and pork, and the other with tofu-and a side of peanut sauce. Both were wrapped in fresh rice paper.

As I bit into these, enjoying the combination of fresh herbs and a savory peanut sauce, I couldn’t help but think that the menu is a great example of healthy “comfort foods” and also an introduction to Vietnamese dining culture that hasn’t made a dent in Milwaukee.

I opted for a specialty entrée (Bahn Xeo): a Vietnamese crepe filled with pork, shrimp, mushrooms, fresh herbs, bean sprouts, and more. I was a bit reluctant to confess I’m not that savvy with chopsticks. Nielsen, sensing my confusion about how best to dive in, offered some advice, which was to roll the crepe and its fillings, along with sliced cucumbers, into a bib of lettuce, and dip that into the ramekin of peanut sauce. I enjoyed it although there were too many bean sprouts for my taste. My expectations matched my taste buds: even as I was finishing up the crepe I was itching for a second meal here, pondering what I might order on that visit.

My dining companion enjoyed his Bun Nem Noung for its divergent flavors and textures: the white-rice vermicelli noodles on top of cold, fresh vegetable and herbs (mint leaves, cucumber slivers, and pickled carrots), with grilled, marinated pork and a hot egg roll thrown in too. He commented that it was nice to experience hot and cold within the same dish.

To close the meal I ordered Vietnamese coffee, impressed that the bold coffee arrived with the sweetened condensed milk and sugar packets on the side, which allowed me to adjust the sweetness to my preference. I’m a sucker for coffee from other cultures, and am pleased to know that a delicious cup of Vietnamese coffee is now just down the street.

In addition to food, the restaurant offers 32 beer choices, from local favorites like Sprecher Amber to imports that include Singha or Tiger. A dozen wine by-the-glass or bottle options are also available. Although the restaurant closes at 10pm (Tuesday through Sunday, closed Monday), the bar remains open much later. Soon, said Nielsen, traditional Vietnamese desserts will be added (right now, just cheesecake and chocolate cake are on the dessert menu), as well as bubble tea (fruits or teas blended and poured over tapioca pearls).

Hue Restaurant & Lounge

• 2691 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.
• (414) 294-0483
• huemilwaukee.com or huebayview.com
• Hours: 4-10pm (Tuesday-Friday) and 11am-close (Saturday and Sunday); closed Monday
• Some Vegan and vegetarian options
• No children’s menu
• Bar on-site that stays open typical bar hours
• Street parking
• Price range: most entrees cost between $9-$15, with appetizers between $8-$11

Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar

Bay View’s latest restaurant has the flavors and ambiance you’d expect from a Paris bistro. Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar (3001 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.)-lemon-yellow walls, refinished woodwork, and adorable café curtains in warm reds and golds-also cultivates an experience more polished than its bar neighbors.

The dinner-only menu dances between fish and meat entrees with ease, but does not neglect vegetarians. There are two meat-free options: seasonal vegetables sautéed with roasted garlic and fresh herbs then served over tagliatelle with garlic toast points, or roasted vegetables and portobello mushroom wrapped in a croissant and served over a Mornay sauce.

On a recent Thursday only a couple of tables were vacant, which chef/owner Michael Engel-who for the last 30 years has cooked at Hotel Metro, The Legend at Brandybrook (Wales), and The Bartolotta Catering Company-blamed on a slow night, despite being open only since late March. A good introduction to the menu can be had by dropping by weekdays between 4pm and 6pm when appetizers are half-price.

There’s more focus on the sauces and ingredients than creative plating techniques. For instance, the Potato Batonettes (French fries) are simply wrapped in paper and served upright inside a glass, with a side of homemade aioli. Yet it’s a more sophisticated touch than throwing them onto a plate. Little touches on each table include ramekins of salted nuts and a miniature-sized martini glass filled with cured olives and pearl onions. Even the water carafe flaunts style as it’s a repurposed olive-green glass bottle. The eclectic playlist included musical selections from Edith Piaf, Johnny Cash, and the Grateful Dead.

On the wine list are true gems from the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions of France-and Italy, Spain, and California too, with most glasses costing between $4 and $7. Bottle prices start at $16 and are mostly in the $20- and $30-dollar range.

For appetizers, we went with the nightly special of frog legs-intrigued, because these are nearly impossible to order at a Milwaukee restaurant. The mingling of garlic, butter, and lemon was so tasty we dipped our bread into the remaining pool of sauce.

Each entrée is paired with a different vegetable daily; on our visit this meant three spears of roasted asparagus. For entrees, we chose Trout Amandine, a boneless locally raised trout that’s pan-fried and finished with slivered almonds tossed in browned butter ($16.95) and Pork Osso Bucco, a famed Berkshire pork from the Mark Newman Family Farm in Missouri that’s slow-cooked with vegetables and served with mashed potatoes ($19.95). Several of the entrees are served in a wine- or spirits-based sauce, such as Alsatian Riesling for the Lamb Leg with Rosemary and Pedro Ximenez sherry with locally raised Duckling Breast with Chorizo and Orange.

Seven desserts, all with French or otherwise Mediterranean roots, round out the menu with the choices ranging from a classic chocolate mousse ($5.95) to a more complex specialty: savarin ($5.50). We fell in love with the pillowy pastry in a cherry sauce swimming with Griottines cherries.

Yet even the mousse is appropriately adorned with crème Chantilly and a homemade sugar cookie. In time for the summer season, Engel has introduced a refreshing addition: Angela’s lemon tart.

Dom and Phil De Marinis

The first thing you notice when you walk into Dom and Phil De Marinis dining room is the friendly atmosphere. On a recent visit with a friend and my 12-year-old granddaughter, we were greeted warmly and shown to a table covered with an old-fashioned red and white checkered tablecloth. Lots of sunlight streams in through large windows that provide a view of a large green space and a peek at the lake.

We ordered the large cheese, sausage, onion pizza plus pepperoni and black olives. It came piping hot and the crust was thin and fairly crisp, the way I like it. It soon disappeared.

There are five different pizza offerings, including a garden pizza with your choice of broccoli, artichoke hearts, red peppers, tomatoes, three cheeses, garlic, and seasoned olive oil. They range in price from $6 for a small cheese and onion to $17.25 for a large garden. And there are many other toppings and additions that can be added.

We were happy with pizza, but if you don’t want pizza, they offer an array of pastas; sandwiches—including their original sausage sandwich with cheese, sauce, and peppers; as well as appetizers, including a large Italian salad with mixed greens, black olives, tomatoes, onions, and pepperoni with cheese and dressing. And they serve a Friday fish fry too.

There is a bar area with booths and also a small game room. You can order food and eat at the bar and in the game room. And there is no television in the dining room. We liked that.

The De Marinis family has been serving Bay View for many years and it seems, given the quality of the food and friendly atmosphere, will continue to serve good, old-fashioned southern Italian food for more to come.

On the way out, my granddaughter, a seasoned pizza easter said, “I think it’s my favorite pizza of all we’ve eaten so far.” Now, there’s a recommendation!

Dom and Phil De Marinis
1211 E. Conway St.
Bay View, WI 53207
(414) 481-2348 or (414) 481-2367
Hours: Tu-Thu 4-10pm; Fri-Sat 4pm-Midnight; Sun 3-10pm Closed Monday
Only a few vegetarian items
Children’s menu: No; No diaper changing
Full bar
Call ahead for take out
Non-Smoking Section
Wheelchair access

Café Tarragon — raw, gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian

Those seeking vegan, gluten-free, raw, or vegetarian fare at last have many savory and sweet options. Café Tarragon, 2352 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., located inside Future Green, a retail store featuring fair trade, recycled, and organic products, is a miniature café busting out fine flavors via an original and thoughtfully conceived menu.

Two chefs design the daily menu and collaborate in food preparation. Cassandra Comerford, boasting 20 years’ experience in professional kitchens, is a graduate of the School of Culinary Arts at Kendall College in Evanston, Ill. Future Green co-owner Lisa Sim is a graduate of the Milwaukee Area Technical College Culinary Arts program and owned and operated The Lunch Connection in the late ’80s and early ’90s in Milwaukee.

The day that my guest and I stopped in, the menu featured a grilled veggie panini on gluten-free bread or wheat-based Italian. It was served with an array of chips, a savory vinegar-and-oil-dressed slaw, and a homemade pickle spear. The sandwich itself was succulent-made with grilled and caramelized red bell peppers, mushrooms, red onions, and garnished with fresh spinach and vegan rice-based “mozzarella.”

Sim and Comerford plan to offer two soup choices each day, one broth-based and one purée. We sampled a truly lovely vegetable soup with a richly flavored broth and vegetables, and garnished with slices of raw bok choy and gluten-free dumplings. The purée soup was golden beet, rich and satisfying.

The spinach salad combined crumbled tofu and thinly sliced red onions with a side of hot miso and puréed mushroom dressing. My dining companion declared the dish “really freakin’ good!” Another salad, one of the all — raw offerings, was comprised of an array of greens and vegetables including “spiralized” red and golden beets and an excellent vinaigrette prepared with olive oil, white balsamic vinegar, and agave nectar. They also offer a vegan creamy garlic peppercorn and Dijon honey mustard, all three homemade. Other salad options are two “potato-like salads.” One stars sweet potatoes and another jicama. We sampled the former. Served cold, it melded a mild dressing with the mellow flavor of a gently boiled and diced sweet potato.

More raw and vegan offerings available are marinated mushrooms stuffed with a vegetable/nut purée and vegetable roll-ups with a shoyu-based dipping sauce.

Sim and Comerford offer raw options each day plus “Raw Saturday” where more raw options are available, including the jicama salad. In time, they plan to include a hot lunch buffet, “no-fish fish fries,” Sunday brunch, and on Valentine’s Day, a special menu for the first 10 couples who sign up.

Except for the Italian bread option for the panini, all baked items are gluten-free, and the day we dined, there were apple/cranberry muffins, scones with golden raisins, plus a raw sweet potato pie.

The sweet course we sampled was raw candy made from dates, coconuts, and walnuts and a vegan chocolate truffle. Both were fine, in part because they were not cloyingly sweet.

Beverages include local fair trade Sven’s coffee and another from Sandra Farms in Puerto Rico. Tea, chai, and Aztec hot chocolate are also served.

Café Tarragon
Lisa and Swee Sim, owners
2352 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.
Tu-Sat 11am-4pm, but deli items are available until 6pm
(414) 294-4300
Menu: About 20 items mostly gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, and/or raw
Prices: Moderate: Soup cup $3.75; bowl $5.25. Sandwiches and salads: $7.99-$8.99.
Smoke-free.
No booster chairs, diaper changing station, or children’s menu (yet).
Organic/Local: Not entire menu.
Take Out: Yes; Delivery: No.
Organic, local, whenever possible, no processed foods, 98 % gluten free.
All carry out containers and utensils are 98% compostable.
Find good  profile of Café Tarragon here.

Honeypie Bakery and Café

I thought it was because of their wonderful dessert, but Honeypie is named after the Beatles’ song. Their sign, a turquoise pig, should have been a clue for me that the restaurant has an affinity for bacon.

The restaurant is retro with the décor of a rural Wisconsin tavern replete with taxidermy, wainscoting, large booths lined up along the wall, and scattered wood tables and chairs. The bar/counter is large and curved.

But not too large and it contributes to the cozy feel. A large blackboard behind proclaims the daily specials, including one for fish and another for the pasty.

The menu reads, “Midwestern food from scratch from our pickles to our pie crust, we believe that good food is rooted in the way our grandparents used to cook.” Their fare, indeed, is cozy, good comfort food.

On recent lunch visit, my friends (one of them a vegetarian) and I ordered salads made of mixed greens, sprouts, carrots, and pea pods; cups of lovely, warm butternut squash soup; and slightly sweet corn muffins. I also ordered chicken and biscuit pie, which was a delight. The flaky crust covered a rich broth, tasty chicken, potatoes, corn, bell peppers, onions, and carrots. For dessert we all had pie, the best restaurant pie I have ever eaten, and locally roasted Anodyne coffee. The menu offers many sandwiches all piled high with meat, veggies, and cheese, some fashioned with innovative twists on old favorites, like the pork BLT, or the Composter, a variation of a standard veggie sandwich, piled with fresh vegetables, sprouts, mixed greens (fresh and varied), tomatoes, cream cheese, and dill sauce.

The menu is light on vegetarian offerings but the kitchen will alter seven of their sandwiches to make them vegan, as well one of their pasties. And 10 items are or can be made vegetarian. Note: they offer a pasty of the day, and they’re made by hand.

The menu states that they get their food from local vendors, like Growing Power, as much as possible.

Now let’s talk about the pie. There are many options including pumpkin, berry/peach, and blueberry-all with flaky crusts like mother used to make (well, not my mother) and an unusual pistachio with an especially good graham cracker crust. The pie, as they say, is to die for, and considering the cholesterol…

On another visit, my friend and I tried the twice baked potato. They harkened back to our childhoods with the rich filling topped with sour cream and green onions. I ordered the Davenport, a plate of generous slices of roasted turkey accompanied by a bit of mustard grain/cranberry sauce, and horseradish mashed potatoes topped with tomato, onions, and bacon. I had them hold the Gruyere cheese sauce. My companion ordered Fancy Mac-mac and cheese made with cheddar and Gruyere with a breadcrumbs and bacon topping. Because we hadn’t ingested enough calories, we asked for a taste of their homemade French fries. We were given more than a taste, and they were delicious-salty and tastier because part of the skin was left on.

And, of course, we had more pie! We left then, not because we wanted to, but because we had to stop sometime. On the way out, we couldn’t resist taking a couple of their lovely frosted cupcakes home, a German chocolate and a hazelnut cream.

Next time pasties and more pie.

More Information

• Honeypie Bakery and Café
• Scott Johnson, Leslie Montemurro, Adam and Val Luck, owners
• 2643 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.
• M-F 10am-”around midnight”; Sat. & Sun. 9am-2:30am
• Brunch menu served Sat. & Sun. 9am-3pm
• Main Menu (not brunch): About 27 items, 7 can be made vegan, 10 are or can be made vegetarian.
• Prices: Moderate. Sandwiches and non-special entrees range $6-$11.
• Smokefree
• No children’s menu, but they will make small portions/Booster chairs/Diaper changing station in women’s bathroom
• Organic/Local: Not entire menu, but some items are local.
• Take Out: Yes; Delivery: No
• Outdoor Patio
• Full bar including 150 bottled craft beers and about 15 organic and/or biodynamic wines.

Horny Goat Brewing Co.’s Horny Hideaway Brewpub

Going to a brewpub without tasting the brew is like going to Europe and dining only on Yankee fast food, but that’s what I did. I had to work after dinner, so I ordered coffee. We will sample and write about their brew another time.

Horny Goat Brewing Co.’s Horny Hideaway, the smokefree pub and microbrewery that opened in October, is located in the former Pump House, 2011 S. First St., along the KK River’s south bank. The main floor features seven flat screens, each broadcasting basketball, football, snowboarding, etc., while the sound system plays rock. The high-ceilinged space is commodious with a bar and about 10 tables on the first floor with additional dining on the wraparound balcony.

I ordered the Gobbler ($7.95), a panino/wrap hybrid. Instead of the ineluctable ennui of the indifferent tortilla or faux ciabatta and focaccia that typifies wraps and panini, the sandwich was enveloped in a thin multigrain flatbread grilled to perfection, just enough to inspire the grains to subtly declare themselves.

Wrapped were smoked turkey, red onion, avocado, lettuce, and a dab of herb/roasted garlic aioli. I asked the kitchen to hold the cheese so mine was served sans provolone and mozzarella. It was tasty, light, and served with chips and a pickle.

My dining companion ordered the quarter-pound hamburger that he said had good flavor, but wanted the option of a larger beef patty. He elected waffle fries that were fresh (clean oil) and golden-crisp on the outside and moist, but not gummy, inside.

Marketing and branding veteran Jim Sorenson, a Waterford, Wis. native, is managing partner and CEO of Horny Goat Brewing Co., a start-up launched in January 2009. He said he prides himself on their European-style brews. His menu goal was not gourmet, he said, just good pub food. He was offering samples the night we were there.

We sampled the bruschetta appetizer ($6.95), three fragrant goat cheese coins served on a thin layer of marinara sauce, accompanied by three bruschetta, brushed with olive oil and scented with a scintilla of garlic. The Three Little Pig Wings appetizer (baked pork ribs) ($7.95) was pronounced “Flavorful!” by my friend but he added, “One was just a little tough.” Our pizza was served on a thin crust lightly coated with a marinara sauce and a judicious layer (not top-heavy) of Italian sausage, chicken, and mozzarella. A food allergy prevented me from tasting it but it was pronounced “Good!” by my dining partner. The guacamole, served with blue corn chips ($6.95), was fresh and mellow, studded with red onion and tomatoes.

The moderately priced menu includes five appetizers ($5.95-$7.95); three burgers ($5.95-$6.95); brat with kraut ($5.95); chili cheese dog ($5.95); 11 pizzas ($8.95-$11.95); two salads ($6.95 and $10.95); 10 non-burger sandwiches including wraps and panini ($4.95-$10.95); one dessert-a warmed chocolate chunk cookie with vanilla ice cream ($4.95); chili, soup of the day ($4.95); plus a children’s menu-hot dog, grilled cheese, burger, or chicken tenders (all items $4.95).

More Information

• Jim Sorenson & Partners
  2011 S. First St.
  (414) 482-4628
• Open every day, 11am-2am
• 40 menu items: 2 vegan, 15 vegetarian, 4 on the kids menu
• Smokefree
• Children’s Menu/Booster Chairs/No Diaper-Changing Stations
• Organic/Local: None, but owner said he plans to buy and employ soon.
• Take Out: Yes; Delivery: No.
• Large outdoor patio next to river where fish fries will be staged in warm weather.
• Beer, wine, full bar, soda. Horny Goat brews are $3 a pint.
• House brews: Exposed Saison, Hopped Up ‘N Horny, Horny Blonde Lager, Red Vixen Vienna Lager, Stacked Milk Stout, Wheat.
• Friday night is charity night. $1 for every pint sold is donated to area charity.

Yum Yum

You could miss the sign that reads “Yum Yum-Ethnic Cuisine” hanging on the front of the restaurant, but you’d be sorry that you did.

Yum Yum, 4125 S. Howell Ave., is a Middle Eastern restaurant that opened in September in the old Boy Blue Ice Cream building, half a block south of Avenue Liquor. Until a few months ago, it was Sahara Café, and you can spot the small building by looking for the yellow Sahara sign, still on the roof.

Orders are placed at the window in the shallow “lobby,” as my friend Larry called it, or as I dubbed it, the front porch. We had been warned we might have to wait for our food, and wait we did. But we didn’t care because we while we waited, we were offered cups of wonderful pureed lentil soup laced with a little bite that was probably produced by chili pepper. The co-owner and chef, Tarek Fleifel, told us he originally made his lentil soup mild, but his customers asked for more spice so he accommodated.

While we waited for our order, we sat in “the front porch” on padded deck furniture and ate our creamy lentil soup from little side tables. Fleifel wanted us to taste Yum Yum falafel and gave us each a sample. This falafel was about the best I have ever eaten. The exterior possessed a nicely browned crust and the chickpea puree inside was moist and flavorful. (A falafel sandwich is $2.99.) A friend joined us, and we sat happily munching and slurping while our order was prepared.

I learned that the owners met and married in their homeland Lebanon. Mrs. (Ola) Fleifel, her husband told us, had only “three years of childhood” before the outbreak of 16 years of civil war. They didn’t want that for their children, so they moved to Kuwait in 1984, where Fleifel mixed chemicals used to clean oil field pipelines. They emigrated to the United States in 1994. “I used to mix chemicals,” he said. “Now I mix food.”

We ordered an appetizer called fuul ($2.99) and ate out on the porch while our entrees were being prepared. Fuul is mashed fava bean dip served warm with pita bread. The perimeter of the fuul is drizzled with Yum Yum’s bright, green olive oil. I could wax poetic about that olive oil. Stating that it is a virgin olive oil doesn’t even begin to relate how good it is, but know that it is up there with olive oil I have tasted in Italy, fresh from the local olive grove. Though part of the menu’s appetizer section, fuul could easily serve as a vegetarian entrée.

We took home their tabouli ($4.49) and three entrees: Chicken Shish Kabob, served browned and richly seasoned ($7.49); Chicken Teka Half, a small half-chicken marinated in its own dressing and grilled ($7.49); and broiled tilapia ($6.49) that had been marinated in fresh lemon and then covered with Fleifel’s sauce, which included onions and green peppers. The sauce was exactly right for the fish since tilapia by itself has little flavor. It added plenty of flavor and a little kick.

The tabouli was the freshest I have ever eaten, made with more parsley than bulgur and deliciously tangy with fresh lemon juice. The sides that came with the entrees included a very good turmeric spiced-rice, humus, and baba ganoush with a dollop of green hot sauce (dakka) made from olive oil and minced jalapeño, which you can scoop off, if you don’t like heat. Both humus and baba ganoush were also very good.

We were sorry we had no room for dessert. Next time we want to try the baklava or kunafa, a pastry topped with sweet cheese and served with sugar syrup and pistachios.

Beverages include coffee (Turkish and regular), a pot of tea, and soft drinks. And seasonally, if you are 18 or older, you might like to indulge in their hookah, which they will set up on the patio.

Yum Yum is definitely fine, fresh, and very affordable. And soon a daily special will be added to their offerings.

There is an outdoor patio on the north side of the building that is fine in warm weather, but for now, Yum Yum is just take-out. Free delivery will soon be available with a minimum $10 order. You may also call in your order, and if you wish, arrange to have it delivered to your car.

More Information

• Tarek and Ola Fleifel
  4125 S. Howell Ave.
• Mon.-Thurs. 10am-9pm; Fri. & Sat. 10am-11pm; closed Sunday
• (414) 489-7200
• 25 menu items; 8-10 vegan and/or vegetarian, 3 dessert
• No children’s menu
• Coffee, tea, soft drinks
• Take-out or delivery only