The Dubliner Irish Pub

Our first indication that The Dubliner Irish Pub is not the typical cramped, dimly lit Irish bar was when we swung open the front doors.

Light poured in through eight-pane windows to the west. Iron chandeliers hung from the high ceilings marked by overhead beams. A stone fireplace beckoned from the back wall. A twin set of clocks hung on one wall: one for our city, and the other for Dublin.

And in another departure from Irish pubs, a smoking ban has been in effect since The Dubliner opened in February.

Owners Jerry and Cheryl Stenstrup, who own Steny’s across the street (which has been in business for 24 years), got inspired during trips to Ireland’s countryside. They opened, appropriately, a month before St. Patrick’s Day 2010.

Only dinner is served on the weekdays. On Saturday and Sunday a traditional Irish breakfast is served beginning at 11am. Nightly drink and food specials go beyond the typical two- or three-hour span to stretch until 10pm or midnight.

Aiming for a gastropub theme, the owners say, its food menu is best defined as comfort food-but with an Irish twist. For instance, a baked pretzel roll (pretzel dough rolled into a ball) arrives with some entrees. Irish cheddar-and not American-tops the Mac N Cheese.

“Pub plates” are the appetizers here. Mulling over options like Dubliner Crab Cakes ($12), Irish Twists (mozzarella cheese rolled in a wonton wrap and fried, $7) and Irish Potato Skins ($6), we settled on Gallaway Mussels ($9) with Guinness broth, parsley, leeks, and new potatoes. Although the broth was more like a pool, but deliciously laced with stout beer, we were impressed with the portion size: at least 25 mussels were in this dish. My order of the Dub Mac N Cheese ($7) was rich, creamy, and hearty, and baked with breadcrumbs on top-everything a good Mac N Cheese ought to be-but I missed that sharp-cheddar taste that often tops the noodles. A little less creamy and I would not hesitate to order it on a return visit.

The menu redeemed itself when my dining companion took that first bite of his Shepherd’s Pie ($10). Filled with parsnips, ground sirloin, peas, carrots, potatoes, and fresh herbs, it’s topped with dollops of mashed potatoes and then baked. Paired with the signature pretzel roll, its execution was perfect-lots of earthy flavors.

We also ordered a side of Irish chips (essentially French fries) with the restaurant’s signature dip. For the Dubliner Dip, corned beef, cheese, and sauerkraut are mixed together. There is also a delicious wasabi ranch-style dip that delivers just enough bite.

To end our culinary tour of Ireland, we took the waitress’ advice and ordered two glasses of Dubliner Irish Cream, which is house-made with Kilbeggan whiskey and Irish Cream, and a slice of Bailey’s cheesecake to share. As I’m a sucker for Irish Cream, I expected to fall in love with this drink-but not as much as I soon did. I love a bar that can pull off a reinterpretation of a classic cocktail. Paired with the cheesecake, which has a chocolate crust, both satisfied our sweet teeth.

• The Dubliner Irish Pub
• 124 W. National Ave.
• (414) 763-0301
• dublinerpub.net
• Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 3pm-bartime; Saturday and Sunday, 11am-bartime; closed Monday
• Some vegetarian options
• No children’s menu
• Bar-on site with 12 draft beers
• Street parking
• Outdoor patio
• Price range: appetizers $6-$12; entrees $7-$16

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