Horny Goat Brewing Co.’s Horny Hideaway Brewpub

Going to a brewpub without tasting the brew is like going to Europe and dining only on Yankee fast food, but that’s what I did. I had to work after dinner, so I ordered coffee. We will sample and write about their brew another time.

Horny Goat Brewing Co.’s Horny Hideaway, the smokefree pub and microbrewery that opened in October, is located in the former Pump House, 2011 S. First St., along the KK River’s south bank. The main floor features seven flat screens, each broadcasting basketball, football, snowboarding, etc., while the sound system plays rock. The high-ceilinged space is commodious with a bar and about 10 tables on the first floor with additional dining on the wraparound balcony.

I ordered the Gobbler ($7.95), a panino/wrap hybrid. Instead of the ineluctable ennui of the indifferent tortilla or faux ciabatta and focaccia that typifies wraps and panini, the sandwich was enveloped in a thin multigrain flatbread grilled to perfection, just enough to inspire the grains to subtly declare themselves.

Wrapped were smoked turkey, red onion, avocado, lettuce, and a dab of herb/roasted garlic aioli. I asked the kitchen to hold the cheese so mine was served sans provolone and mozzarella. It was tasty, light, and served with chips and a pickle.

My dining companion ordered the quarter-pound hamburger that he said had good flavor, but wanted the option of a larger beef patty. He elected waffle fries that were fresh (clean oil) and golden-crisp on the outside and moist, but not gummy, inside.

Marketing and branding veteran Jim Sorenson, a Waterford, Wis. native, is managing partner and CEO of Horny Goat Brewing Co., a start-up launched in January 2009. He said he prides himself on their European-style brews. His menu goal was not gourmet, he said, just good pub food. He was offering samples the night we were there.

We sampled the bruschetta appetizer ($6.95), three fragrant goat cheese coins served on a thin layer of marinara sauce, accompanied by three bruschetta, brushed with olive oil and scented with a scintilla of garlic. The Three Little Pig Wings appetizer (baked pork ribs) ($7.95) was pronounced “Flavorful!” by my friend but he added, “One was just a little tough.” Our pizza was served on a thin crust lightly coated with a marinara sauce and a judicious layer (not top-heavy) of Italian sausage, chicken, and mozzarella. A food allergy prevented me from tasting it but it was pronounced “Good!” by my dining partner. The guacamole, served with blue corn chips ($6.95), was fresh and mellow, studded with red onion and tomatoes.

The moderately priced menu includes five appetizers ($5.95-$7.95); three burgers ($5.95-$6.95); brat with kraut ($5.95); chili cheese dog ($5.95); 11 pizzas ($8.95-$11.95); two salads ($6.95 and $10.95); 10 non-burger sandwiches including wraps and panini ($4.95-$10.95); one dessert-a warmed chocolate chunk cookie with vanilla ice cream ($4.95); chili, soup of the day ($4.95); plus a children’s menu-hot dog, grilled cheese, burger, or chicken tenders (all items $4.95).

More Information

• Jim Sorenson & Partners
  2011 S. First St.
  (414) 482-4628
• Open every day, 11am-2am
• 40 menu items: 2 vegan, 15 vegetarian, 4 on the kids menu
• Smokefree
• Children’s Menu/Booster Chairs/No Diaper-Changing Stations
• Organic/Local: None, but owner said he plans to buy and employ soon.
• Take Out: Yes; Delivery: No.
• Large outdoor patio next to river where fish fries will be staged in warm weather.
• Beer, wine, full bar, soda. Horny Goat brews are $3 a pint.
• House brews: Exposed Saison, Hopped Up ‘N Horny, Horny Blonde Lager, Red Vixen Vienna Lager, Stacked Milk Stout, Wheat.
• Friday night is charity night. $1 for every pint sold is donated to area charity.